Sailing Above The Arctic Circle

By Geoff Saunders

Emerging on deck around midnight, I should not have been surprised to see the sun still shining, but nonetheless I was. There, amongst the scattered yellow and orange clouds in the north, it glowed well above the horizon.

I had flown to Bodo, in June, to join Trinovante for a voyage along Norway’s northern coast, starting above the Arctic Circle, and finishing in Trondheim, the former capital. Along the way, we would visit some of the wildest and most remote places in Europe, and explore the coastline, under sail. Northern Norway is largely ignored as a tourist venue though cruise liners do ply the spectacular fjords further south.

Though sailing experience is not essential, to join aTrinovante voyage a willingness to learn is. With only the captain and mate, and up to seven guest sailors, handling the sails needs all hands and muscle power available. As it transpired, we had five guests aboard, all of whom had some experience, and were eager to gain more.

Sail Across The Arctic Circle In 2019

Schooner crew hoisting a topsail on a sailing holiday in Norway

Our first destination was Sorvagen, a tiny fishing village on the Lofoten Islands, some 30 miles from our start.

Out on the open sea, Trinovante heeled on the stiff breeze, and rode the swell easily.

We set and reset sails as the winds demanded and the captain instructed. But sunshine or no, we were well above the Arctic Circle, so were very glad of the warm sailing gear provided. The Lofoten Islands are home to a fishing community that still thrives on the winter cod run, when large numbers of fish migrate from the Arctic. The catch is freeze dried on frames in the open, though some islanders nail cod to the wooden walls of their houses.

The schooner Trinovante moored in Sorvagen, Norway.

After a couple of days exploring the islands, we set sail across the open waters again, heading south, to pick up the inside passage amongst myriad islands that dot Norway’s coast.

The weather was amazing. I had come prepared for cold and rain and I had expected daylight, not sunshine, 24 hours a day.

From our coastal vantage we could see well inland where the huge glaciers and ice sheets of Norway’s interior glinted against the blue sky.

Some days, we caught fish and my shipmates were easily persuaded to let me prepare meals. Some evenings we stopped in little ports, mooring alongside local boats. Other evenings we dropped anchor in quiet bays or sheltered anchorages, and relaxed.

Watching the sun not go down with a beer in hand really is special.

One morning to our astonishment, a Beluga whale popped up right beside us, and observed us carefully for several minutes.

Trinovante schooner crew relaxing in the midnight sun, Norway

During the voyage, with plenty of practice, our sailing skills improved so that when eventually we crossed the broad fjord to Trondheim, and journey’s end, under full sail our boat must have looked a real picture.

Approaching the harbour, the famous coastal cruise ship Hurtigruten saluted us with blasts on the siren. It may provide more comforts than our schooner, but could not better the thrill of sailing, nor the quality of our fresh food.

Leaving the schooner at last in Trondheim I could not resist a visit to Bakklandet Skydsstation, a traditional restaurant in a traditional house with rustic furniture, friendly staff and a daily changing menu posted on paper slips by the bar.

The reindeer salad was excellent, but I daren’t tell my grandchildren …

Sail Across The Arctic Circle In 2019

Reindeer graxing along the fjord edge, Norway

All 2023 UK Sailing Holidays

Voyages In Date Order

SchoonerSail

UK Sailing Weekends

October 31, 2019

Fri 5th to Mon 8th May 2023
3 nights £495
A UK sailing weekend to get out on the water in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

View of waves sailing offshore to Norway.

SchoonerSail

Harwich To Kirkwall, Orkney

October 31, 2021

Sat 13th May to Sat 27th May 2023
14 nights £2160
2 Spaces Only
A voyage to Orkney lasting several days with time to sail and explore ashore on arrival.

SchoonerSail Limited

Sailing In Orkney

October 31, 2021

Fri 2nd June to Fri 9th June 2023
7 Nights £1295
1 space only High summer sailing and exploring in the islands of Orkney

SchoonerSail

Orkney to Shetland & Shetland to Orkney

October 31, 2021

Thurs 15th July to Thurs 22nd July FULL
Or
Mon 24th to Mon 31st July 2023 £1295
7 Nights
A voyage from Shetland to Orkney or Orkney to Shetland Via Fair Isle

Walking ashore on a sailing holiday in Shetland

Sailing In Shetland

November 2, 2021

Wed 28th June to Wed 5th July 2023 £1295
or
Tues 11th July to Tues 18th July 2023 £1295
7 Nights
A sailing holiday in Shetland with time to explore ashore.

The Schooner Trinovante enters Whitby Harbour on a UK Sailing Holiday. Copyright Alan Green.

Kirkwall, Orkney To Whitby

May 1, 2018

Sat 5th Aug To Sat 13th Aug 2023
8 Nights £1350
Sail south along the Scottish coast to Whitby.

View through a port hole of the sea - taken on a UK Sailing Holiday.

SchoonerSail Limited

Whitby To Harwich

May 1, 2018

Sat 19th Aug to Fri 25th Aug 2023
6 Nights £960
Set sail on the old collier route. Offshore and Coastal Sailing

Southen Pier at sunset with rigging blocks in the foreground

SchoonerSail

Ipswich To London

November 3, 2021

Thurs 31st Aug To Mon 4th Sept 2023
4 Nights £720
Sail on the East Coast rivers and up to the centre of London.

The schooner Trinovante sailing off Felixstowe

London to Harwich

July 8, 2022

Fri 8th Sept To Tues 12th Sept 2023
4 Nights FULL
Sail from the centre of London to the historic port of Harwich.