Sailing Above The Arctic Circle

Our first destination was Sorvagen, a tiny fishing village on the Lofoten Islands, some 30 miles from our start.

Out on the open sea, Trinovante heeled on the stiff breeze, and rode the swell easily.

We set and reset sails as the winds demanded and the captain instructed. But sunshine or no, we were well above the Arctic Circle, so were very glad of the warm sailing gear provided. The Lofoten Islands are home to a fishing community that still thrives on the winter cod run, when large numbers of fish migrate from the Arctic. The catch is freeze dried on frames in the open, though some islanders nail cod to the wooden walls of their houses.

During the voyage, with plenty of practice, our sailing skills improved so that when eventually we crossed the broad fjord to Trondheim, and journey’s end, under full sail our boat must have looked a real picture.

Approaching the harbour, the famous coastal cruise ship Hurtigruten saluted us with blasts on the siren. It may provide more comforts than our schooner, but could not better the thrill of sailing, nor the quality of our fresh food.

Leaving the schooner at last in Trondheim I could not resist a visit to Bakklandet Skydsstation, a traditional restaurant in a traditional house with rustic furniture, friendly staff and a daily changing menu posted on paper slips by the bar.

The reindeer salad was excellent, but I daren’t tell my grandchildren …