Sailing Above The Arctic Circle

By Geoff Saunders

Emerging on deck around midnight, I should not have been surprised to see the sun still shining, but nonetheless I was. There, amongst the scattered yellow and orange clouds in the north, it glowed well above the horizon.

I had flown to Bodo, in June, to join Trinovante for a voyage along Norway’s northern coast, starting above the Arctic Circle, and finishing in Trondheim, the former capital. Along the way, we would visit some of the wildest and most remote places in Europe, and explore the coastline, under sail. Northern Norway is largely ignored as a tourist venue though cruise liners do ply the spectacular fjords further south.

Though sailing experience is not essential, to join aTrinovante voyage a willingness to learn is. With only the captain and mate, and up to seven guest sailors, handling the sails needs all hands and muscle power available. As it transpired, we had five guests aboard, all of whom had some experience, and were eager to gain more.

Sail Across The Arctic Circle In 2019

Schooner crew hoisting a topsail on a sailing holiday in Norway

Our first destination was Sorvagen, a tiny fishing village on the Lofoten Islands, some 30 miles from our start.

Out on the open sea, Trinovante heeled on the stiff breeze, and rode the swell easily.

We set and reset sails as the winds demanded and the captain instructed. But sunshine or no, we were well above the Arctic Circle, so were very glad of the warm sailing gear provided. The Lofoten Islands are home to a fishing community that still thrives on the winter cod run, when large numbers of fish migrate from the Arctic. The catch is freeze dried on frames in the open, though some islanders nail cod to the wooden walls of their houses.

The schooner Trinovante moored in Sorvagen, Norway.

After a couple of days exploring the islands, we set sail across the open waters again, heading south, to pick up the inside passage amongst myriad islands that dot Norway’s coast.

The weather was amazing. I had come prepared for cold and rain and I had expected daylight, not sunshine, 24 hours a day.

From our coastal vantage we could see well inland where the huge glaciers and ice sheets of Norway’s interior glinted against the blue sky.

Some days, we caught fish and my shipmates were easily persuaded to let me prepare meals. Some evenings we stopped in little ports, mooring alongside local boats. Other evenings we dropped anchor in quiet bays or sheltered anchorages, and relaxed.

Watching the sun not go down with a beer in hand really is special.

One morning to our astonishment, a Beluga whale popped up right beside us, and observed us carefully for several minutes.

Trinovante schooner crew relaxing in the midnight sun, Norway

During the voyage, with plenty of practice, our sailing skills improved so that when eventually we crossed the broad fjord to Trondheim, and journey’s end, under full sail our boat must have looked a real picture.

Approaching the harbour, the famous coastal cruise ship Hurtigruten saluted us with blasts on the siren. It may provide more comforts than our schooner, but could not better the thrill of sailing, nor the quality of our fresh food.

Leaving the schooner at last in Trondheim I could not resist a visit to Bakklandet Skydsstation, a traditional restaurant in a traditional house with rustic furniture, friendly staff and a daily changing menu posted on paper slips by the bar.

The reindeer salad was excellent, but I daren’t tell my grandchildren …

Sail Across The Arctic Circle In 2019

Reindeer graxing along the fjord edge, Norway

UK Tall Ships Sailing Holidays 2024

Voyages In Date Order

Uk Sailing weekends on the schooner Trinovante

SchoonerSail

Sailing Weekend Breaks UK

September 1, 2023

Fri 17th to Mon 20th May 2024
3 Nights No Spaces Available
A sailing weekend break in the UK. Get out on the water in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

View of waves sailing offshore to Norway.

SchoonerSail

An Offshore Sailing Holiday Orkney

September 2, 2023

Sat 25th May to Sat 8th June 2024
14 nights No Spaces Available
A voyage to Orkney lasting several days with time to sail and explore ashore on arrival.

Sailing In Orkney, a small traditional sailing boat at anchor, harbour view near Stromness.

SchoonerSail Limited

Orkney Sailing Holiday

September 3, 2023

Fri 14th June to Fri 21st June 2024
7 Nights No Spaces Available
High summer sailing and exploring in the islands of Orkney

SchoonerSail

Fair Isle Sailing Holiday

September 4, 2023

Thurs 27th June to Thurs 4th July
Or
Wed 24th to Wed 31st July 2024
7 Nights No Spaces Available
A voyage to Fair Isle from Shetland or Orkney

Shetland Sailing Holiday

September 5, 2023

Wed 10th July to Wed 17th July 2024
7 Nights No Spaces Available
A sailing holiday in Shetland with time to explore ashore.

The Schooner Trinovante enters Whitby Harbour on a UK Sailing Holiday. Copyright Alan Green.

Kirkwall, Orkney To Whitby

September 7, 2023

Tues 6th Aug To Wed 14th Aug 2024
8 Nights No Spaces Available
Sail south along the Scottish coast to Whitby.

View through a port hole of the sea - taken on a UK Sailing Holiday.

SchoonerSail Limited

Whitby To Harwich

September 8, 2023

Wed 21st Aug to Tues 27th Aug 2024
6 Nights No Spaces Available
Set sail on the old collier route. Offshore and Coastal Sailing

Southen Pier at sunset with rigging blocks in the foreground

SchoonerSail

Ipswich To London

September 9, 2023

Mon 2nd To Fri 6th Sept 2024
4 Nights No Spaces Available
Sail on the East Coast rivers and up to the centre of London.

The schooner Trinovante sailing off Felixstowe

Sailing London to Harwich

September 10, 2023

Fri 13th Sept To Tues 17th Sept 2024
4 Nights No Spaces Available
Sail from the centre of London to the historic port of Harwich.