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Show me the itinerary for
2009
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for 2009
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| Winter 2008 |
Intro/What's
new -
A Brief Glimpse of Last Summer - places
and photos
Into The Arctic Circle
For The First Time - the crews eye view
How To Sail a Schooner
no.5 - learn how its done
The 2008 Tall Ships Race - the race,
the party, the prizes...
How to Tell a Schooner From
a Ketch - and sound like an expert! |
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Newsletter and brochure now online only.
We are no longer sending out printed newsletters. Schoonersails's
mailing list had grown so big we decided on environmental and cost
grounds to go entirely online. You can sign
up for the online version on our web site to keep recieving them
and to keep up to date on our voyage plans and news.
New Online Booking Form
You can now instantly send in your booking application using
our new secure
booking pages
Tall ships Race
Trinovante participated in the Tall Ships Race for the first
time this year and it was tremendous fun - both the race legs and
the time spent with all the other ships in port. We were totally caught
up in the enthusiasm of the event and can't wait to participate again.
Current plans are to enter again in 2010.
Read more further down the page

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In the press
This year Schoonersail has been featured by Coast Magazine in an article
about our Taster Weekends and in the Sunday
Times Travel Section with a piece covering one of our offshore
voyages.
Voyaging Offshore
In the past four years Schoonersail
has specialised in sailing off the beaten track. In 2008 Trinovante
sailed nearly 4500 miles. 2009 should add another 3500 to the total
but there are still plenty of taster weekends in the mix of challenging
offshore voyages and legs that involve mostly day sails. If
you are still wondering which is right for you after reading the voyage
notes just give us a ring on the boat phone(07977 594649).
Third Topmast All Set For 2009
Those who sail regularly on Trinovante will know the boat has been
sailing with a reduced rig of only two top masts for the last few
years.
All is now ready to restep the third topmast and the new No2 fishermans
sail is stowed in the forepeak. The extra sail area will make a big
difference to passage times and there is some exciting sailing ahead
in 2009.
Thanks for the photos
Several people on other boats, both traditional sail and commercial,
have taken the trouble to send us their photos of Trinovante. We know
this takes a little bit of effort and we really appreciate it - photos
of a boat under sail are always hard to come by. So special thanks
to Chief Officer Knut Revne from MT "Doris" and Charles
Wara manager and skipper of Aurora Borealis and S/Y Goxsheim sailing
from Bodo.
Su and John
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The Landscape
Stunning dosn't do it justice. The photo below was taken while we
lay at anchor in a sheltered rocky pool.
It was a beautiful evening and we had the whole
place completely to ourselves. |
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In the back ground are the Seven Sisters mountains, who, the legends
say were turned to stone.
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Hanging Glacier On the Port Side!
You can just see the hanging glacier behind Trinovante in this photo.
It was hard to believe the tongue of ice hanging from the mountain side,
glistening bright turquoise in the sunlight was real. It could have
been a prop from Dr Who, a moulded piece of polystyrene glued in an
improbable place.
The photo opposite is Trinovante alongside the quay at
Sundal, just south of Bergen and deep into the fjords.
It was shorts and tee shirts weather when the whole crew walked up the
valley alongside a fast flowing stream and the glacial lake, through
steep woodland almost to the foot of the glacier. Now what was it they
told us in geography about terminal moraine and U shaped valleys? |
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The Fishermans Wife
For centuries cod fishing has been one of the main sources
of income in the Lofoten Islands. The fishing season is in full swing
over the winter when the spawning cod come down from the Barents sea.
When we visit in high summer the acres of now empty cod drying racks
in settlements all over the islands and fishing quays tell of the
winter activity.
Fishing has historically been a dangerous activity with many lives
lost at sea so there is a certain poignancy when you see the 'Fishermans
Wife'eternally waving to her husband, at the entrance to Svolver harbour.
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Sea Eagles
We don't have a photo of Sea Eagles, although we saw plenty.
Even though these are big birds they were always just a bit too far
away for our zoom . There is an impressive stuffed sea eagle in the
tourist info in Bodo, it stands waist high so the wing span must be
huge.
We thought we had an eye for them until a keen bird spotter on our
Tromso to Bodo leg last year often managed to spot sea eagles roosting
in trees or pottering about on rocks. The rest of us could only see
them through binoculars with plenty of instruction.
Espolin
Karre Espolin Johnssen is a well known artist in Norway.He spent the
part of his life in the Lofoten Islands where there is a gallery entirely
devoted to him. Two of his themes were the fishing boats and fishermen
and the landscape of the islands- John the skipper even bought the
T shirt opposite. |
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It was cloudy and had started to rain as we gathered in Trondheim,
Northern Norway to join Trinovante, a three masted gaff rig schooner
for her first voyage north of the Arctic Circle.
Excited apprehension filled the air as we stepped aboard
our floating home for the next two weeks, meeting our Skipper
- John, Mate - Su and our fellow crew members for the first time;
Adrian, Helen, Kathy, Melanie, “big” Paul, Paul and Sue.
Instantly made to feel at home, the new crew, who had joined for the
leg from Trondheim to Tromso, relaxed over the first of many mugs
of tea and a spot on meal. That evening, as we made a start on the
new stock of duty free that had been urgently requested in last minute
e-mails from Su, the conversation flowed freely.
We discovered that whilst we had all sailed before, a three-masted
schooner and gaff rig was new to most of us and the impending
leg north beyond the Arctic Circle was a first for all, including
Trinovante. The resulting buzz of excitement was heightened further
as Su the Mate gleefully introduced us to our new traveling companions,
commercial seafarers 'continous wear' immersion suits! On the preceding
leg Su realised that standard “oilies” were not “up
to the job” this far north and made a hasty decision to order
the suits immediately. These suits rapidly became our best friends
with many snug hours spent cocooned inside their insulating layers
on cold watches. Indeed, one of the crew, Sue, christened her's Bob
and seemed to enjoy his company off watch as much as on!
All of us had some sailing experience, some of us with thousands
of sea-miles under their belts, but it was nearly all with Bermudan
rigs.
The daunting mass of ropes running down from the top of the masts
to the pin-rails had some of us wondering if two weeks would be enough
time to learn enough to be anything other than a hindrance. However,
despite our initial fumblings, Su declared that she could see the
makings of a truly “crack” crew (although some of us may
have misheard the first word…). Theory and practice worked hand
in hand during the practice honed by regular snippets of theory from
John and Su at opportune moments. For our differing levels this was
perfect as our knowledge was supplemented as we sailed.
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During the first few days we quickly learned to pull on the
black ropes on the starboard side after
raising the sails using the halyards on the port side. By the end of
the first week we all knew these black ropes were 'jig-tackles' or 'hardeners'
- the purchase's that stretch out the luff on the gaff sails and raise
the peaks on the three gaff, we even knew what their mechanical advantage
was.
Sailing was mostly made up of 10% manic activity and 90% quiet contemplation,
whilst enjoying a brew. When not taking our turn at the helm, we watched
sheer mountains dropping into steely grey Norwegian fjords as we glided
past. The big draw of this particular leg of the
Trinovante's Norwegian trip was that we would be crossing the Arctic
Circle. And there began in essence a trip of two almost contrasting
halves. Sailing out of Trondheim supplied the stereotypical view of
Norway, all narrow shear sided waterways, the depth gauge reading
into the hundreds of metres, giving way in the second week to wide
inland leads that gave us ample sea room to beat down.
Those of us used to shallower waters were alarmed at how close we
could sail to the sides of the fjords and islands. We had been expecting
long passages across open sea from one fjord to the next. None of
us had realised that Norway is fringed by low-lying rocky islands
extending almost the entire length of the coast, giving the skipper
a maze of navigational options for passage making and safe havens. |
Most of the first week of the trip we were flanked by snowy
peaked dark-grey mountain ranges to starboard and greener,
low rocky outcrops to port. Watching sea eagles soaring over the peaks
and fjords together with the darting swallow-like flight of the Arctic
Terns were two of the wildlife high points. On another day a pilot
whale appeared off our starboard.
On our first afternoon we spent most of the day in t shirts, fishing
in a gentle breeze.
The weather however, can be fast changing here and late afternoon
saw a squall arriving with deceptive speed. Our newly acquired knowledge
of the gaff rig was severely tested as sail was rapidly shortened
with scuppers awash and visibility reduced to almost zero in Polar
temperature horizontal rain
With winds gusting at 45 knots we ran for cover behind the
lee of islands.
Dropping the fisherman's staysail, set flying between the fore and
main masts, was a serious challenge for the yet to be crack crew.
That said, the relative ease with which the gaff sails can be handled
in-board and the flexibility to set the optimum sail area to match
the ever changing conditions without reefing, soon had the most ardent
Bermudan rig fan won over to this powerful yet easily managed rig.
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A few days after the excitement of the squall we reached
the Arctic Circle. Slipping through a particularly narrow
passage in an archipelago of islands, we were all watching the GPS
display waiting for it to move on to 66O33'N, signifying our “crossing
of the line” and our arrival in the Arctic. We celebrated in
the time honoured fashion - with a mug of tea and biscuits –
followed by two bottles of champagne in harbour that evening.
For those worrying that everything thereafter would be an
anticlimax, almost immediately we sailed into pale turquoise waters,
and several days of clear sunny weather, several of the crew remarking
that if it weren't for our immersion suits we could have been in Antigua.
Sailing over from the main coast of Norway to the Lofoten Islands
with head to wind it was not long before the crew were competing to
balance pointing angle against boat speed to maximise velocity made
good to windward.
After anchoring in a sheltered bay on our first night in the Lofoten
Islands we spent a memorable afternoon exploring the outlying island
of Skrova, whilst moored at an old whaling station in the island's
only harbour. The island looked small, barren and rocky from a distance
but a walk through its interior unveiled a variety of habitats including
meadows, bogs, and tundra. We egged each other on for a quick swim
off a white sandy beach that could have easily been mistaken for a
Caribbean hideaway, if it were not for the initial shock of the freezing
cold sea.
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villages and fishing communities along the coast but were also
able to find several beautifully remote and secluded anchorages, where
the deep water of the channels gave way to shallow pools. Here we indulged
in that strangely addictive pass-time of jigging for cod with tin foil
and watching the midnight sun as it skimmed along the western horizon
playing hide and seek behind the snow cloud peaks. We had some luck
with our fishing exploits with a single cod feeding all nine of us for
lunch on one occasion. At other meals Su variously yielded up from stock
piles secreted throughout the boat; reindeer stake, two whole trout
and Swedish Meatballs. Another gastronomic favourite was the bowls of
steaming hot porridge for breakfast. |
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As the rapidly improving crew had done so well sailing to windward
it was only fitting that the wind, until that point mainly northerly
or nor-easterly, should swing round and give us the opportunity to develop
our technique for sailing down-wind in 50 tonnes of boat.
The challenge this time was not about balancing speed and course but
sailing the best course down wind without gybing or heading up into
the wind and off course. Added to the pressure was the fisherman's sail
which the mate seemed so proud of. Its 350 sq ft of sail that is set
flying and has to be dropped and reset on the opposite side for every
tack or gybe. An accidental gybe could rip the sail in two with
the gaff of the foresail and none of us wanted to be responsible
for that happening. This led to the other big surprise for those used
to Burmudan rigs - the gybing characteristics of a three masted gaff
schooner. A characteristic lifting of the mainsail boom warned that
the wind was too far aft so, the skilful helmsman has enough time to
correct their course before a full-scale gybe of either this sail or
any of the other gaff sails.
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In a full gybe only the mizzen is controlled, the foresail
and mainsail just gently change sides – more like junk
rig and nothing like gybing a bermudan rigged boat. The biggest sea-way
we had experienced since the beginning of the voyage gave an added
dimension, buffeting the boat from aft and making it difficult to
keep on any straight course. We battled bravely until the Skipper
stepped in and took over making it look easy, controlling the course
so well as to goose-wing for a while whilst we picked our way through
some hidden rocks at the entrance to our next port of call.
On arriving at Tromso the mate was heard to mumble that maybe this
crew had been transformed into a crack crew after all and we did not
mishear her this time!
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Trinovante sailed away from the quay in Norway as shown here this
summer (2008).Sailing off a quay requires careful timing. All the
crew need to know exactly what their specific role is going to be
and are well briefed beforehand so they understand what is about to
happen. Once the operation is started things happen quite quickly.
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Preparing to sail
The aim here is to get the boat away from the quay, turned, on the
wind, with the sails drawing and ready to tack in the shortest possible
time - before we reach the other side of the fjord opposite the quay.
We don't have room to sail too far down wind. This is done by getting
the boat swinging from the word go.
The wind is blowing slightly off the quay from aft. Lines have been
singled up and are ready to slip - this means here that they have
been looped round the bollards and can be hauled in from onboard.
All the sails have been prepared and are ready to hoist. |
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Box One
The staysail sheeted amidships acts like a weather cock to swing
the boat in line with the wind.(if you don't know what the individual
sails are called have a look at the sail
plan)
As soon as the tension is released on the forward shore line the boat
is sprung in by the stern line and the bows start to swing away from
the quay. They will not swing out very far so you have to seize the
momentum while it is there. The bow line is smartly slipped and hauled
in.
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Box Two
As soon as the boat is in line with the wind the jib can be hoisted
without it setting aback. Simultaneously the stern line is hauled
in.
As the boat starts to gather way the helm is put over a little. Too
far over and the stern would be steered into the quay because boats
pivot about a point around a third of the way aft .
If you have trouble with this concept imagine 'steering' a long plank
on your shoulder round a corner. The end of the plank behind you will
swing a long way out to one side because the pivot point of the plank
is on your shoulder. |
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Box Three
As the wind comes across the stern and the stern comes clear of the
quay the peak of the mizzen is hoisted. Hoist it too soon and you
risk dragging the sail, boom and gaff down the quay.
The wind in the mizzen sail pushes the stern round accelerating the
turn. As soon as possible the crew get the rest of the mizzen up.
You can always set just the peak on a run but you need the wind more
on the beam to get the rest of the sail up. |
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Box Four
The fore sail and main sail are now hoisted and the crew progressively
sheet all the sails in until Trinovante comes round into a close hauled
heading.
The crew straight away go to their tacking stations when the sails
are set and drawing nicely.
Once Trinovante has plenty of way on she can then tack when she needs
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Arriving in the cold harbour on the island of Silde
in steady drizzle after a long overnight passage, much of it spent
in thick fog, left us in no mood to do anything else apart from go
to bed. We awoke around lunchtime with sun streaming in through the
port holes and warm air flowing in the main hatch. Outside the small
island in the centre of the fjord had been transformed into a tropical
paradise... and that's why Trinovante was the last boat to arrive
at the Tall Ships Race Port in Maloy.
Party at Maloy
Turid, our liaison officer was frantically waving from the quay. Unbeknown
to us, whilst we had been swimming and hill walking on Silde 10 miles
up the fjord, the race committee had started to assume that Trinovante
wasn't going to turn up! After a few apologies John the skipper was
straight into sorting out all the paper work and safety inspections
for participation in the Tall Ships Race... and that was how the skipper
and mate missed the crew parade.
The atmosphere in Maloy was fantastic, all the race
ports go to a great effort to welcome the Tall Ships Fleet and Maloy
was no exception. The open air crew party, in a natural amphitheatre
overlooking the fjord, really stood out as something to remember.
Especially the flying inflatable!.
Cruise in Company
Norwegian Air had delayed flights for some of the crew sailing
with us on the cruise in company. They arrived at the last minute,
throwing their bags on board from the quay as Trinovante slipped her
moorings. It's amazing we weren't late for the 'parade of sail' too.
Trinovante cruised in company with the Norwegian Galeas
Loyal and the now Spanish operated Far Barcelona. There was quite
a bit of history between these two boats which were both built in
the same yard in Norway..
Party on Sotra
I'll just say here that the reunion between the Loyal and Far Barcelona
was yet another excuse for a party. Lavishly hosted on the Island
of Sotra by the Loyal we felt honoured to be invited. Sailing in Norway
we had occasionally seen, or rather heard an traditional Norwegian
fishing boat motoring up a fjord. The slow revving, incredibly loud
engine noise is the old style semi-diesel in action. Now Norwegians
will wax lyrical about this,with a tear in their eye they will proclaim
it to be the sound of their childhood. We had even heard stories that
the men have CD's of engine sounds that they listen to in the everlasting,dark
Norwegian winters.
On Sotra it happened - late into the night a large boom box was perched
on top of the wheel house by Audin, skipper of the Loyal, cranked
up to full volume. Audin put on his best engine noises CD. It sounded
like rave music at first, all the men gathered round excitedly with
almost religious ecstasy on their faces. Greta, Audins partner sighed
' he always gets that CD out when we have a late night party' she
said.
Trinovante Crew Runs Away With A Prize.
It was a massive surprise to win the 'running up a very steep hill
race' in Bergen.
The liaison officer filling out the entry form for Alison, our sporting
star,bit his lip and said 'err you do know that's a very steep hill,
and a very tough race'.
The crew looked quietly confident - OK Alison looked
quite tiny but we secretly knew she was a very competitive hill runner.
A team leader was appointed and Alison nipped into Bergen to get a
running shirt. As she walked across the Dutch naval boat alongside
she casually mentioned that perhaps they might consider entering some
crew for the race.
On the morning of the race, on the start line stood
two Dutch men, pretty large, ragingly fit and handsomely smart as
they limbered up in their athletic lycra wear. Alison just about came
up to their elbows. We didn't feel quite so confident now but the
whole crew and our liaison office had turned out to cheer Alison on
so we all sweatily toiled up the hill, a long flight of uneven steps
made of rough hewn rocks. It was knackering.
Passing the finish post Alison breathlessly said she
had run past the Dutch guys on the hill. First prize was a guitar
and a book of sea shanties. Alison who had been expecting nothing
more than a rosette was thrilled, she even made it into the local
papers the following day.
Very sportingly the crew of the Urania did a close
sail past in their beautifully maintained yacht during the parade
of sail, gave us three cheers and threw us a can of beer. If you have
ever bought a ludicrously expensive pint in Norway you will know what
a precious commodity that is!
In the lead again - well for a while anyway...
Tall Ships passing in the night
The race start was delayed for two hours as all the boats bobbed around
in the swell with zero wind. Just as the sun set the race was on.
Gradually over night the wind freshened. Trinovante was going like
a train with the wind on the quarter and every thing set. One by one
Trinovante overtook the stern lights of other tall ships in the race.
It was so dark we often only knew which boat we were passing by guess
work. Trinovante gradually clawed her way into first place in class
and sixth overall - but it didn't last.
Once we rounded the windward mark off Aberdeen
the wind died completely and then came back fresh on a dead header.
The weather started to deteriorate and we were making very little
headway. Eventually with a forecast of a deep low tracking into the
North Sea the decision to retire was made and we motored into Den
Helder. Shortly after the race committee also looking at the weather
took the decision to end the race early. We might have been a bit
hasty in deciding to retire but after all there was a party to go
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Den Helder Here We
Come
It was a relief to get into Den Helder - we were all pretty tired after
sailing 800 miles in eight days at sea. Hot showers and washing
machines were an urgent prioity. After Norway everything seemed very
cheap and the crew pretty quickly found the local bar.
The crew parade was a highlight in Den Helder. The mexican crew of Cuatemoc
were immaculately turned out as ever, the Picton Castle crew were brightly
coloured in amongst the hundreds of sailors from all over the world. |
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Sloops and cutters.
Lets start off on boats with only one mast – the sloop has one
headsail, a cutter has two or more. Sloops and cutters can be either
gaff rigged like the drawing or bermudan rigged like most yachts.
The average yacht today will be a bermudan sloop.
Where’s the mizzen mast?
Usually it’s the aftermost mast. A ketch or yawl has a main
mast and a mizzen mast but a two masted schooner or square rigger
has only a fore mast and main mast.
On three masted square riggers and schooners the mizzen is the aftermost
mast. More than three masts? Lets not go there just now....
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Ketches and Yawls
A ketch has two masts with the mizzen mast stepped before the rudder
head. If the mast is stepped aft of the rudder head the boat becomes
a yawl not a ketch
Yawl rig tends to be used on smaller boats, ketch is often used on
larger vessels, notably the Brixham trawlers and trading ketches of
the last century.
The mizzen sail in a ketch is a driving sail, in a yawl it is often
more of a balancing sail. The mizzen sail is always is smaller, often
much smaller than the mainsail. If it was the same size or larger
the boat would become a schooner.
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Sprit rig
Sprit rig is usually reserved for dinghies but is also used on the Thames
barges. You will only see sprit rigged barges in the Thames estuary
but as they are local to us we will give them a mention here.
The sprit is the spar that runs diagonally across the largest sail.
Its not a rig that can be used in a seaway because the sprit cannot
be lowered and the windage and rolling would make it a large unmanageable
weight aloft. In coastal waters it is an extremely handy rig, the topsail
can catch a high up breeze above river banks and the mainsail can be
quickly brailed up to the sprit if bit of a breeze gets up (its like
drawing a large curtain)
If you want to know more about its use in dinghies there is an article
on our web site.
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Schooners
Schooners have two or more masts. The after masts must be the same height
or greater than the foremast. The American seven masted schooner, the
Thomas Lawson had more masts than any other schooner but was the only
one of its kind.
Two masted schooners are simply called schooners, schooners with more
than two masts are called by the number of masts they have unless that
is they are a topsail schooner.
A topsail schooner has a squaresail on the fore mast. They were once
common in the UK Usually no reference is made to the number of masts
that a topsail schooner carries. Back
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