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Autumn 2008 Newsletter

Intro/What's new

A Brief Glimpse of Last Summer
Places and Photos

Into The Arctic Circle For The First Time
the crews eye view

Learn To Sail a Schooner no.5 learn how its done

The 2008 Tall Ships Race
the race, the party, the prizes...

How to Tell a Schooner From a Ketch
and sound like an expert!
  Trinovante sailing along the south coast to Plymouth.

Intro / What's New    

Newsletter and brochure now online only.

We are no longer sending out printed newsletters. SchoonerSails' mailing list had grown so big we decided on environmental and cost grounds to go entirely online. You can sign up for the online version on our web site to keep receiving them and to keep up to date on our voyage plans and news. New Online Booking Form
You can now instantly send in your booking application using our new secure booking pages

Tall Ships Race

Trinovante participated in the Tall Ships Race for the first time this year and it was tremendous fun - both the race legs and the time spent with all the other ships in port. We were totally caught up in the enthusiasm of the event and can't wait to participate again. Current plans are to enter again in 2010.
Read more further down the page


Su and John on the aft deck of Trinovante

 


In the press

This year SchoonerSail has been featured by Coast Magazine in an article about our Taster Weekends and in the Sunday Times Travel Section with a piece covering one of our offshore voyages.

Voyaging Offshore

In the past four years Schoonersail has specialised in sailing off the beaten track. In 2008 Trinovante sailed nearly 4500 miles. 2009 should add another 3500 to the total but there are still plenty of taster weekends in the mix of challenging offshore voyages and legs that involve mostly day sails.If you are still wondering which is right for you after reading the voyage notes just give us a ring on the boat phone(07977 594649).

Third Topmast All Set For 2009

Those who sail regularly on Trinovante will know the boat has been sailing with a reduced rig of only two top masts for the last few years.
All is now ready to restep the third topmast and the new No2 fishermans sail is stowed in the forepeak. The extra sail area will make a big difference to passage times and there is some exciting sailing ahead in 2009.

Thanks For The Photos

Several people on other boats, both traditional sail and commercial, have taken the trouble to send us their photos of Trinovante. We know this takes a little bit of effort and we really appreciate it - photos of a boat under sail are always hard to come by. So special thanks to Chief Officer Knut Revne from MT "Doris" and Charles Wara manager and skipper of Aurora Borealis and S/Y Goxsheim sailing from Bodo.

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A Brief Glimpse of last Summer    

The Landscape
Stunning doesn't do it justice. The photo below was taken while we lay at anchor in a sheltered rocky pool.
It was a beautiful evening and we had the whole place completely to ourselves.

 


In the back ground are the Seven Sisters mountains, who, the legends say were sisters turned to stone.

The Seven Sisters Mountains near Sandnessjoen, Norway.
Hanging Glacier On the Port Side

You can just see the hanging glacier behind Trinovante in this photo. It was hard to believe the tongue of ice hanging from the mountain side, glistening bright turquoise in the sunlight was real. It could have been a prop from Dr Who, a moulded piece of polystyrene glued in an improbable place.
The photo opposite is Trinovante alongside the quay at Sundal, just south of Bergen and deep into the fjords.
It was shorts and tee shirts weather when the whole crew walked up the valley alongside a fast flowing stream and the glacial lake, through steep woodland almost to the foot of the glacier. Now what was it they told us in geography about terminal moraine and U shaped valleys?
  Moored near Sundal with a hanging glacier in the background.
The Fisherman's Wife

For centuries cod fishing has been one of the main sources of income in the Lofoten Islands. The fishing season is in full swing over the winter when the spawning cod come down from the Barents sea. When we visit in high summer the acres of now empty cod drying racks in settlements all over the islands and fishing quays tell of the winter activity.
Fishing has historically been a dangerous activity with many lives lost at sea so there is a certain poignancy when you see the 'Fisherman's Wife' eternally waving to her husband, at the entrance to Svolver harbour.
  The Fishermans Wife statue outside Svolver, Lofotens

Sea Eagles

We don't have a photo of Sea Eagles, although we saw plenty. Even though these are big birds they were always just a bit too far away for our zoom . There is an impressive stuffed sea eagle in the tourist info in Bodo, it stands waist high so the wing span must be huge.
We thought we had an eye for them until a keen bird spotter on our Tromso to Bodo leg last year often managed to spot sea eagles roosting in trees or pottering about on rocks. The rest of us could only see them through binoculars with plenty of instruction.

Espolin

Karre Espolin Johnssen is a well known artist in Norway.He spent the part of his life in the Lofoten Islands where there is a gallery entirely devoted to him. Two of his themes were the fishing boats and fishermen and the landscape of the islands- John the skipper even bought the T shirt opposite.

 

Johns Espolin T Shirt.

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A view of the Norwegian coast on our way to the Arctic Circle.

Into the Arctic Circle for the First Time   By Adrian Luckins and Melanie White

It was cloudy and had started to rain as we gathered in Trondheim, Northern Norway to join Trinovante, a three masted gaff rig schooner for her first voyage north of the Arctic Circle.

Excited apprehension filled the air as we stepped aboard our floating home for the next two weeks, meeting our Skipper - John, Mate - Su and our fellow crew members for the first time; Adrian, Helen, Kathy, Melanie, “big” Paul, Paul and Sue.
Instantly made to feel at home, the new crew, who had joined for the leg from Trondheim to Tromso, relaxed over the first of many mugs of tea and a spot on meal. That evening, as we made a start on the new stock of duty free that had been urgently requested in last minute e-mails from Su, the conversation flowed freely.

We discovered that whilst we had all sailed before, a three-masted schooner and gaff rig was new to most of us and the impending leg north beyond the Arctic Circle was a first for all, including Trinovante. The resulting buzz of excitement was heightened further as Su the Mate gleefully introduced us to our new traveling companions, commercial seafarers 'continuous wear' immersion suits! On the preceding leg Su realised that standard “oilies” were not “up to the job” this far north and made a hasty decision to order the suits immediately. These suits rapidly became our best friends with many snug hours spent cocooned inside their insulating layers on cold watches. Indeed, one of the crew, Sue, christened her's Bob and seemed to enjoy his company off watch as much as on!

All of us had some sailing experience, some of us with thousands of sea-miles under their belts, but it was nearly all with Bermudan rigs.
The daunting mass of ropes running down from the top of the masts to the pin-rails had some of us wondering if two weeks would be enough time to learn enough to be anything other than a hindrance. However, despite our initial fumblings, Su declared that she could see the makings of a truly “crack” crew (although some of us may have misheard the first word…). Theory and practice worked hand in hand during the practice honed by regular snippets of theory from John and Su at opportune moments. For our differing levels this was perfect as our knowledge was supplemented as we sailed.

 

Our schooner alongside in the Lofoten Islands, Kabelvag.

Schooner Crew pose for a photo graph with John the skipper on the helm.

Trinovante with all sails set. She now carries a third topmast.

A view over Norwegian islands, they seem to go on forever.

  During the first few days we quickly learned to pull on the black ropes on the starboard side after raising the sails using the halyards on the port side. By the end of the first week we all knew these black ropes were 'jig-tackles' or 'hardeners' - the purchase's that stretch out the luff on the gaff sails and raise the peaks on the three gaff, we even knew what their mechanical advantage was.
Sailing was mostly made up of 10% manic activity and 90% quiet contemplation, whilst enjoying a brew. When not taking our turn at the helm, we watched sheer mountains dropping into steely grey Norwegian fjords as we glided past.

The big draw of this particular leg of the Trinovante's Norwegian trip was that we would be crossing the Arctic Circle. And there began in essence a trip of two almost contrasting halves. Sailing out of Trondheim supplied the stereotypical view of Norway, all narrow shear sided waterways, the depth gauge reading into the hundreds of metres, giving way in the second week to wide inland leads that gave us ample sea room to beat down.
Those of us used to shallower waters were alarmed at how close we could sail to the sides of the fjords and islands. We had been expecting long passages across open sea from one fjord to the next. None of us had realised that Norway is fringed by low-lying rocky islands extending almost the entire length of the coast, giving the skipper a maze of navigational options for passage making and safe havens.

Most of the first week of the trip we were flanked by snowy peaked dark-grey mountain ranges to starboard and greener, low rocky outcrops to port. Watching sea eagles soaring over the peaks and fjords together with the darting swallow-like flight of the Arctic Terns were two of the wildlife high points. On another day a pilot whale appeared off our starboard.
On our first afternoon we spent most of the day in t shirts, fishing in a gentle breeze.
The weather however, can be fast changing here and late afternoon saw a squall arriving with deceptive speed. Our newly acquired knowledge of the gaff rig was severely tested as sail was rapidly shortened with scuppers awash and visibility reduced to almost zero in Polar temperature horizontal rain

 

 

 

With winds gusting at 45 knots we ran for cover behind the lee of islands.
Dropping the fisherman's staysail, set flying between the fore and main masts, was a serious challenge for the yet to be crack crew. That said, the relative ease with which the gaff sails can be handled in-board and the flexibility to set the optimum sail area to match the ever changing conditions without reefing, soon had the most ardent Bermudan rig fan won over to this powerful yet easily managed rig.

 

Adrian at the helm, looking quite relaxed, drinking tea.

Melanie and Adrian out on the bowsprit and ready to lower the jib at a moments notice.

Rugged glacial landscape with a navigation mark in the foreground.

a village along the coast of Norway, one of the many we visited on this sailing holiday.

 

A few days after the excitement of the squall we reached the Arctic Circle. Slipping through a particularly narrow passage in an archipelago of islands, we were all watching the GPS display waiting for it to move on to 66O33'N, signifying our “crossing of the line” and our arrival in the Arctic. We celebrated in the time honoured fashion - with a mug of tea and biscuits – followed by two bottles of champagne in harbour that evening.

For those worrying that everything thereafter would be an anticlimax, almost immediately we sailed into pale turquoise waters, and several days of clear sunny weather, several of the crew remarking that if it weren't for our immersion suits we could have been in Antigua.

Sailing over from the main coast of Norway to the Lofoten Islands with head to wind it was not long before the crew were competing to balance pointing angle against boat speed to maximise velocity made good to windward.

After anchoring in a sheltered bay on our first night in the Lofoten Islands we spent a memorable afternoon exploring the outlying island of Skrova, whilst moored at an old whaling station in the island's only harbour. The island looked small, barren and rocky from a distance but a walk through its interior unveiled a variety of habitats including meadows, bogs, and tundra. We egged each other on for a quick swim off a white sandy beach that could have easily been mistaken for a Caribbean hideaway, if it were not for the initial shock of the freezing cold sea.

We generally over nighted alongside at one of the many small villages and fishing communities along the coast but were also able to find several beautifully remote and secluded anchorages, where the deep water of the channels gave way to shallow pools. Here we indulged in that strangely addictive pass-time of jigging for cod with tin foil and watching the midnight sun as it skimmed along the western horizon playing hide and seek behind the snow cloud peaks. We had some luck with our fishing exploits with a single cod feeding all nine of us for lunch on one occasion. At other meals Su variously yielded up from stock piles secreted throughout the boat; reindeer stake, two whole trout and Swedish Meatballs. Another gastronomic favourite was the bowls of steaming hot porridge for breakfast.   Su,first mate, in the galley cooking dinner for the crew.
At the wheel of a tall ship.  

As the rapidly improving crew had done so well sailing to windward it was only fitting that the wind, until that point mainly northerly or nor-easterly, should swing round and give us the opportunity to develop our technique for sailing down-wind in a heavy displacement boat.
The challenge this time was not about balancing speed and course but sailing the best course down wind without gybing or heading up into the wind and off course. Added to the pressure was the fisherman's sail which the mate seemed so proud of. Its 350 sq ft of sail that is set flying and has to be dropped and reset on the opposite side for every tack or gybe.

An accidental gybe could rip the sail in two with the gaff of the foresail and none of us wanted to be responsible for that happening. This led to the other big surprise for those used to Burmudan rigs - the gybing characteristics of a three masted gaff schooner. A characteristic lifting of the mainsail boom warned that the wind was too far aft so, the skilful helmsman has enough time to correct their course before a full-scale gybe of either this sail or any of the other gaff sails.

In a full gybe only the mizzen is controlled, the foresail and mainsail just gently change sides – more like junk rig and nothing like gybing a bermudan rigged boat. The biggest sea-way we had experienced since the beginning of the voyage gave an added dimension, buffeting the boat from aft and making it difficult to keep on any straight course. We battled bravely until the Skipper stepped in and took over making it look easy, controlling the course so well as to goose-wing for a while whilst we picked our way through some hidden rocks at the entrance to our next port of call.

On arriving at Tromso the mate was heard to mumble that maybe this crew had been transformed into a crack crew after all and we did not mishear her this time!
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  Our schooner sailing goosewinged with foresail and mainsail set.
another stunning Lofoten Islands view, this one taken from Skrova

Learn To Sail A Schooner No.5

Sailing Away From A Quay with the Wind Aft

  By John Shores

 

Trinovante sailed away from the quay in Norway as shown here this summer 2008.

Sailing off a quay requires careful timing. All the crew need to know exactly what their specific role is going to be and are well briefed beforehand so they understand what is about to happen. Once the operation is started things happen quite quickly.

 

Preparing to sail

The aim here is to get the boat away from the quay, turned, on the wind, with the sails drawing and ready to tack in the shortest possible time - before we reach the other side of the fjord opposite the quay. We don't have room to sail too far down wind. This is done by getting the boat swinging from the word go.

The wind is blowing slightly off the quay from aft. Lines have been singled up and are ready to slip - this means here that they have been looped round the bollards and can be hauled in from onboard.
All the sails have been prepared and are ready to hoist.

 

Box One

The staysail sheeted amidships acts like a weather cock to swing the boat in line with the wind.(if you don't know what the individual sails are called have a look at the sail plan)
As soon as the tension is released on the forward shore line the boat is sprung in by the stern line and the bows start to swing away from the quay. They will not swing out very far so you have to seize the momentum while it is there. The bow line is smartly slipped and hauled in.

 

Box Two

As soon as the boat is in line with the wind the jib can be hoisted without it setting aback. Simultaneously the stern line is hauled in.
As the boat starts to gather way the helm is put over a little. Too far over and the stern would be steered into the quay because boats pivot about a point around a third of the way aft .
If you have trouble with this concept imagine 'steering' a long plank on your shoulder round a corner. The end of the plank behind you will swing a long way out to one side because the pivot point of the plank is on your shoulder.

 

Box Three

As the wind comes across the stern and the stern comes clear of the quay the peak of the mizzen is hoisted. Hoist it too soon and you risk dragging the sail, boom and gaff down the quay.

The wind in the mizzen sail pushes the stern round accelerating the turn. As soon as possible the crew get the rest of the mizzen up. You can always set just the peak on a run but you need the wind more on the beam to get the rest of the sail up.

 

Box Four

The fore sail and main sail are now hoisted and the crew progressively sheet all the sails in until Trinovante comes round into a close hauled heading.

The crew straight away go to their tacking stations when the sails are set and drawing nicely.

Once Trinovante has plenty of way on she can then tack when she needs to and start to beat out of the fjord.

For more articles like this go to our learn to sail page


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Tall Ships Race Report 2008    

Swimming in Norway just before the Tall Ships Race

Ships in Harbour at the Tall Ships Races Maloy

A flying rib at the tall ships races Maloy

Ships in port at theTall Ships Races Bergen

The crew of Trinovante at the Tall Ships Races, Maloy, Norway.

A square rigger in the Tall Ships Parade of sail

Onbe of the crew of Trinovante recieving a prize at the Tall Ships Races Bergen

Tall ships in the Tall Ships Race Bergen to Den Helder

Bow of the Sorlandet

 

Arriving in the cold harbour on the island of Silde in steady drizzle after a long overnight passage, much of it spent in thick fog, left us in no mood to do anything else apart from go to bed. We awoke around lunchtime with sun streaming in through the port holes and warm air flowing in the main hatch. Outside the small island in the centre of the fjord had been transformed into a tropical paradise... and that's why Trinovante was the last boat to arrive at the Tall Ships Race Port in Maloy.

 

Party at Maloy

Turid, our liaison officer was frantically waving from the quay. Unbeknown to us, whilst we had been swimming and hill walking on Silde 10 miles up the fjord, the race committee had started to assume that Trinovante wasn't going to turn up! After a few apologies John the skipper was straight into sorting out all the paper work and safety inspections for participation in the Tall Ships Race... and that was how the skipper and mate missed the crew parade.

The atmosphere in Maloy was fantastic, all the race ports go to a great effort to welcome the Tall Ships Fleet and Maloy was no exception. The open air crew party, in a natural amphitheater overlooking the fjord, really stood out as something to remember. Especially the flying inflatable!.

 

Cruise in Company

Norwegian Air had delayed flights for some of the crew sailing with us on the cruise in company. They arrived at the last minute, throwing their bags on board from the quay as Trinovante slipped her moorings. It's amazing we weren't late for the 'parade of sail' too.

Trinovante cruised in company with the Norwegian Galeas Loyal and the now Spanish operated Far Barcelona. There was quite a bit of history between these two boats which were both built in the same yard in Norway..

 

Party on Sotra

I'll just say here that the reunion between the Loyal and Far Barcelona was yet another excuse for a party. Lavishly hosted on the Island of Sotra by the Loyal we felt honoured to be invited. Sailing in Norway we had occasionally seen, or rather heard an traditional Norwegian fishing boat motoring up a fjord. The slow revving, incredibly loud engine noise is the old style semi-diesel in action. Now Norwegians will wax lyrical about this,with a tear in their eye they will proclaim it to be the sound of their childhood. We had even heard stories that the men have CD's of engine sounds that they listen to in the everlasting,dark Norwegian winters.

On Sotra it happened - late into the night a large boom box was perched on top of the wheel house by Audin, skipper of the Loyal, cranked up to full volume. Audin put on his best engine noises CD. It sounded like rave music at first, all the men gathered round excitedly with almost religious ecstasy on their faces. Greta, Audin's partner sighed ' he always gets that CD out when we have a late night party' she said.



Trinovante Crew Runs Away With A Prize.

It was a massive surprise to win the 'running up a very steep hill race' in Bergen.
The liaison officer filling out the entry form for Alison, our sporting star,bit his lip and said 'err you do know that's a very steep hill, and a very tough race'.

The crew looked quietly confident - OK Alison looked quite tiny but we secretly knew she was a very competitive hill runner. A team leader was appointed and Alison nipped into Bergen to get a running shirt. As she walked across the Dutch naval boat alongside she casually mentioned that perhaps they might consider entering some crew for the race.

On the morning of the race, on the start line stood two Dutch men, pretty large, ragingly fit and handsomely smart as they limbered up in their athletic lycra wear. Alison just about came up to their elbows. We didn't feel quite so confident now but the whole crew and our liaison office had turned out to cheer Alison on so we all sweatily toiled up the hill, a long flight of uneven steps made of rough hewn rocks. It was knackering.

Passing the finish post Alison breathlessly said she had run past the Dutch guys on the hill. First prize was a guitar and a book of sea shanties. Alison who had been expecting nothing more than a rosette was thrilled, she even made it into the local papers the following day.

Very sportingly the crew of the Urania did a close sail past in their beautifully maintained yacht during the parade of sail, gave us three cheers and threw us a can of beer. If you have ever bought a ludicrously expensive pint in Norway you will know what a precious commodity that is!

 

In the lead again - well for a while anyway...
Tall Ships passing in the night


The race start was delayed for two hours as all the boats bobbed around in the swell with zero wind. Just as the sun set the race was on. Gradually over night the wind freshened. Trinovante was going like a train with the wind on the quarter and every thing set. One by one Trinovante overtook the stern lights of other tall ships in the race. It was so dark we often only knew which boat we were passing by guess work. Trinovante gradually clawed her way into first place in class and sixth overall - but it didn't last.

Once we rounded the windward mark off Aberdeen the wind died completely and then came back fresh on a dead header. The weather started to deteriorate and we were making very little headway. Eventually with a forecast of a deep low tracking into the North Sea the decision to retire was made and we motored into Den Helder. Shortly after the race committee also looking at the weather took the decision to end the race early. We might have been a bit hasty in deciding to retire but after all there was a party to go to...

The Tall Ships Races crew parade Den Helder   Den Helder Here We Come

It was a relief to get into Den Helder - we were all pretty tired after sailing 800 miles in eight days at sea. Hot showers and washing machines were an urgent priority. After Norway everything seemed very cheap and the crew pretty quickly found the local bar.
The crew parade was a highlight in Den Helder. The mexican crew of Cuatemoc were immaculately turned out as ever, the Picton Castle crew were brightly coloured in amongst the hundreds of sailors from all over the world.
The crew of Trinovante after the Tall ships Races in Den Helder Two crew from the kaliakra in the crew parade, Tall Ships Races Den helder Back to top

How To Tell A Ketch From A Schooner

Sloops and cutters.

Lets start off on boats with only one mast – the sloop has one headsail, a cutter has two or more. Sloops and cutters can be either gaff rigged like the drawing or bermudan rigged like most yachts. The average yacht today will be a bermudan sloop.

Where’s the mizzen mast?

Usually it’s the aftermost mast. A ketch or yawl has a main mast and a mizzen mast but a two masted schooner or square rigger has only a fore mast and main mast.
On three masted square riggers and schooners the mizzen is the aftermost mast. More than three masts? Lets not go there just now....

  Sloop rig

Ketch - gaff rig

 



Ketches and Yawls

A ketch has two masts with the mizzen mast stepped before the rudder head. If the mast is stepped aft of the rudder head the boat becomes a yawl not a ketch
Yawl rig tends to be used on smaller boats, ketch is often used on larger vessels, notably the Brixham trawlers and trading ketches of the last century.
The mizzen sail in a ketch is a driving sail, in a yawl it is often more of a balancing sail. The mizzen sail is always is smaller, often much smaller than the mainsail. If it was the same size or larger the boat would become a schooner.

Sprit rig

Sprit rig is usually reserved for dinghies but is also used on the Thames barges. You will only see sprit rigged barges in the Thames estuary but as they are local to us we will give them a mention here.
The sprit is the spar that runs diagonally across the largest sail. Its not a rig that can be used in a seaway because the sprit cannot be lowered and the windage and rolling would make it a large unmanageable weight aloft. In coastal waters it is an extremely handy rig, the topsail can catch a high up breeze above river banks and the mainsail can be quickly brailed up to the sprit if bit of a breeze gets up (its like drawing a large curtain)
If you want to know more about its use in dinghies there is an article on our web site.
  Thames Barge - sprit rig
three masted schooner rig.   Schooners

Schooners have two or more masts. The after masts must be the same height or greater than the foremast. The American seven masted schooner, the Thomas Lawson had more masts than any other schooner but was the only one of its kind.
Two masted schooners are simply called schooners, schooners with more than two masts are called by the number of masts they have unless that is they are a topsail schooner.
A topsail schooner has a squaresail on the fore mast. They were once common in the UK Usually no reference is made to the number of masts that a topsail schooner carries.
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